Good Food hat 15 / 20 How we score Seafood $$ $$ The name gives you a clue. There’s an exuberant sense of Australiana running through this new CBD restaurant, inspired by a certain jolly swagman camped by a billabong. The menu’s focus on seafood, steak and the charcoal grill all evoke Australian barbecues and beachside holidays.
There’s even what you might call “Mum’s trifle” for dessert. What makes it more intriguing is that Tilda is one of four independently run venues to open in the newly refitted Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, the luxury hotel in Phillip Street built by Qantas in 1965. The ambitious, fast-moving House Made Hospitality group hasn’t opened a dull restaurant yet, with Lana, Grana and Martinez now joined by this virtual restaurant precinct.
The semicircular tower has always been magnificent, but now the Fender Katsalidis desert-toned interiors push back with their own brand of glamour. A mirrored and leather-clad lobby gives way to two creamily toned dining rooms, each with the buzz of a stand-alone restaurant. No snoozy, waiting-room ambience here.
Floor staff are chatty and informed, and there’s many a flourish built in for fun, like the signature bread and butter service ($39), inspired by the trolley “beurre garni” service of Quality Bistro in New York. A.P.
Bakery’s saltbush focaccia comes on a butler’s tray, with Dinosaur Design bowls filled with chive and mountain pepper Pepe Saya butter, whipped macadamia cream and seared Jersey mil.