Copy link Copied Copy link Copied Subscribe to gift this article Gift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe. Already a subscriber? Login ′′Quick, finish your snacks and let’s move,” cries Banyan Tours’ guide Pujan Rai. He’s spotted a “swarm of monks” (Rai’s words, not mine), and wants to follow in their enlightened footsteps.

“I just heard they’re performing a shapten ceremony [which involves chasing bad spirits from a house] down the road,” Rai says, as we gather up walking poles, hats and day packs to jog after the monks, muesli bars still dangling from our mouths. Loading..

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