, just a two-hour ferry ride from Athens, is inexplicably missed by most foreign tourists. Greener than the other Cyclades, it’s a walker’s paradise, with well-marked trails spanning the isle, and leading from hilltop monasteries through fertile valleys to hidden beaches. Base yourself in the sleepy main town, also called Andros, which can be reached from the ferry terminal by local bus.
For those not inclined to exertion, there are beaches either side of town, and on the main street can organise guided visits to local waterfalls, a vineyard and botanic gardens. requires effort and planning to reach and has few facilities, which means that the island has none of the crowds of its big brother, Skye, over the water. I had my finest ever day’s walking traversing the first three peaks in the range (a challenging hike that should only be tackled by experienced hill walkers) and my best ever travel experience staying in the on a beach on the north-western coast.
Then there’s , a decaying late 19th-century pile built by a Lancashire textile magnate. His grandiose mausoleum is well worth a visit too, by bike on former deer stalking tracks. in the Bristol Channel may be windswept and small at just three miles long and half a mile wide, but every inch tells a story.
Whether on a day trip or staying for longer, there is magic in exploring places with names like Hell’s Gates, , the Devil’s Slide and Sugar Loaf. Enjoying the views from a deckchair at the top of the is a must, .