Malabar Coast, Arabian Sea. There’s romance enough just in the names. I’m rattling along in a rickety local bus (no windows, driver perched on the springs of a seat that long ago lost its padding) towards Kochi in Kerala state, south-west India.
The city, once known as Cochin, was a relatively sleepy place in the 1960s. Since then, the population has exploded from a manageable 250,000 to more than 31⁄2 million. What you’ll see today is a colonial-era district, Fort Kochi, surrounded by a vast Indian city of shopping malls, high-rise apartment blocks and motorways – pumping with life and energy 24/7.
Traditional Kathakali dance on New Year carnival in Fort Kochi, Kerala, India. Credit: Getty Images Fort Kochi was a significant trading port long before the local raja (king) negotiated a deal with the Portuguese in 1500. He got the worst of the arrangement, slowly losing power to his erstwhile ally.
The Portuguese built a fort, hence the name, and held on to the territory for the next 163 years before losing it in turn to the Dutch. The British wrested it away in 1795, holding on to the growing town until India gained its hard-won independence in 1947. It’s no surprise Kochi is a major tourist attraction.
It’s small enough to navigate around easily and is packed with the magnificent architecture of three successive colonial influences alongside Indian, with the whole lot surrounded by sea. With an international airport well serviced by flights from Australia, Kochi.