In Goan homes, a sweet ritual is practised on the first of August every year. People begin the month by eating something sweet, typically made with coconut and madachem godd (black palm jaggery)—a mixture called godd chunn. It contains two ingredients found in abundance in the state: jaggery and coconut.
The belief is that having this delectable combo will ensure the month ahead is pleasant. A popular sweet something made with this mix is patoli (patoleo for plural)—a Goan monsoon classic with turmeric leaves, rice, ghee, coconut and of course, sugar. Many versions of patoli are found across the Konkan coast, where it goes by different names like the elaada in Kerala whose mix is steamed in banana leaves; and the manjal irre dha gatti of Mangaluru.
Monsoon brings out a wide variety of seasonal greens in Goa that grow wild in forests and in people’s backyards. One of the most beloved of these is turmeric leaf, which comes to life for a brief period and can be plucked only in rainy season. This leaf is the star of the patoli, whose popularity has much to do with the Goan habit of eating seasonal foods.
Many of Goa’s monsoon festivals, which are religious coincide with the harvest season and thus, are abundant in Goan bounty: fresh rice and turmeric leaves. A typical patoli is made with local rice that is soaked overnight and whipped into a paste, the pyramid-shaped black jaggery (some use regular jaggery) for colour and a chocolate-like sweetness, freshly grated coconut.