Real, as opposed to fantastical, fashion is the unifying message of the new season. Bottega Veneta ’s Matthieu Blazy said he was “interested in making a monument out of the everyday,” which is essentially autumn/winter 2024’s motto. Broadly speaking, the focus is less on silhouette (though there were shoulders of Claude Montana–ish proportions) than on materials and tactility.
Taken altogether the combination of heritage tweeds and herringbones with plaids and Aran and argyle knits conjures an English country weekend. Building on this outdoorsy – but decidedly not gorpcore – theme are a preponderance of ski sweaters representing perhaps a nostalgia for snow, which climate change has rendered increasingly rare in some parts of the world. Outerwear in shearling, faux furs, feathers and yarn provides more than warmth.
These often voluminous touch-me pieces do the work for you, whether you’re going for glam by way of Diana Ross or Carrie Bradshaw or leaning into the haute bohème vibe rekindled at Chloé . While designers are more focused on daywear and mix-and-match separates (“reality,” in fashion speak), that doesn’t mean they’re engaged with the world’s grim reality. Copious amounts of red wine-coloured garments take the edge off.
Wars are raging, populism is growing and momentous elections are looming at home and abroad, but luxury’s response is mostly to apply the rules of disengagement. Rather than get political, fashion is choosing to offer s.