There are so many different ways to cook vegetables in the brassica family — cauliflower, broccoli, Romanesco, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, kohlrabi, bok choy, savoy cabbage. Whether you steam, bake, roast or sauté these hearty veggies, they all will stand up to a range of bold, contrasting flavors, especially the Italianate combinations of sweet, sour and salty. Tossing cooked brassicas with raisins, vinegar, a little honey or sugar, onions and spices adds interest and elegance, lifting them to dinner party status.
All brassicas, especially cauliflower, broccoli and Romanesco, are best roasted, either in the pan on the stovetop or in the oven using high heat. This transforms them from their pale selves into something tender, crisp, golden brown and slightly sweet. Freshness is the key to success, and right now, cauliflower is at its peak in our farmers markets and co-ops.
You may find “cheddar” cauliflower, so named for its color, as well as purple and neon green specimens and Romanesco, cauliflower’s darker green cousin. All the varieties actually taste nearly the same as the white and can be used interchangeably. Most recipes call for the core and leaves to be removed and discarded, but they’re not only edible, they’re delicious.
The core has a meatier, firmer texture than the florets, but its flavor is the same and should be included in all preparations. The pale tender green leaves taste like cabbage with texture to match. Be sure to pan-roast the cauliflower.