MILAN (AP) — Milan designers dipped into neutrals and muted tones for next summer — reflecting both a conservative streak in troubled times and a move toward thoughtful production of garments that can anchor any wardrobe. Boss revamped its trademark suiting with a more relaxed, even deconstructed, vibe that can take men and women from day to after hours. Antonio Marras created joyous silhouettes that hearkened to the 1950s, an era long depicted as fun and carefree.

Even Roberto Cavalli opened with white, ivory and ecru cotton dresses before exploding, inevitably, into bright hues. Here are some highlights from runway preview shows Wednesday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week of mostly womenswear for Spring-Summer 2025: A cadre of 1990s and 2000s supermodels, including Eva Herzigova, Joan Smalls and Alex Wek, ramped up the energy at the Roberto Cavalli show wearing vintage gowns in tribute to the late designer. During the finale, Cavalli designer Fausto Puglisi plucked Cavalli’s widow and longtime collaborator, Eva Cavalli, from the front row, and the supermodels took her in a warm embrace.

Arm-in-arm, they walked backstage, wearing archival looks bearing Cavalli hallmarks: bright asymmetrical animal print gowns, deep, leg-baring slits, black leather, chiffon and feathers. “For the first fashion week without Roberto, I wanted to involve Eva to celebrate through what I consider seven iconic pieces from the archives, involving the women who most represented Cavalli’.