I push out the night’s cobwebs with a cup of coffee, sitting on the sundeck of our elegant barge, while watching the sun peak above the trees that hedge France’s Marne River. A wispy mist rises from the warm water like dragon’s breath; it swirls and drifts, dancing in the morning light. The engine of our vessel, the Nenuphar, rumbles to life, echoing across the river’s smoky surface.
The ship’s personable young deckhand Sacha releases the ropes from the dock bollards, and we push off from the wharf. I have always been excited by the mysteries of river travel, sailing on a slow boat down a meandering, well-travelled waterway stokes my imagination. With the Summer Olympics getting into full swing, and Paris all-abustle, I was looking for the perfect antidote, a relaxing French escape, close to, but worlds away from the speed and excitement of the Games.
I found it here, floating leisurely along a peaceful canal on a barge, through the Champagne region of northeastern France. This is slow travel at its best, calm, cultivated and serene, as the historic waterway forces travellers to slow down to its own relaxing pace. The scenery is constantly changing, the passing vessels, bustle of activity, and characters you meet lead to new adventures and fresh discoveries around every bend.
Our smartly designed vessel for the week-long voyage, the 39-metre barge Nenuphar, is built for intimacy and luxury. The ship’s elegant decor and superb service remind me of a fine country ho.