A unique outdoor experience, where you pay for your bath by the litre. You’ll see a lot of things on a drive through the mountains in rural Japan, but if you’re up north of Tokyo, in Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture, you’ll want to keep your eyes peeled for a secret onsen so unusual even locals are surprised by it . We never would’ve come across the onsen ourselves if it wasn’t for our reporter Masanuki Sunakoma stumbling upon it during a drive in the area.
What drew his attention to the spot was a giant, handmade sign that read “ Tent Baths Onsen Sales “, and being the adventurous type, he immediately turned off the main road to find out what it was all about. The sign looked a little creepy and so too did the road to the so-called “tent baths”, which was more like a forest path, taking him into a heavily wooded area that was dimly lit due to shade cover. Masanuki’s heart was thumping with excitement at the impulse decision to veer off towards an unknown destination, but when he turned a corner and saw an arrow with the familiar onsen hot spring icon on it, he knew he was on the right path.
Not long past this sign, the trees cleared and Masanuki arrived at a facility that looked like a secret hideout. As he cautiously approached the main building, a friendly landlady appeared, smiling with a warm welcome and easing Masanuki’s nerves. She told him to park the car and head inside the cafe, where he could register for his bath.
▼ The cafe and baths here.