That doesn't mean grilling fish is easy or foolproof. Most seafood proves expensive — overcooking can render it inedible and a real misfortune. So, let's talk about how to be successful.

First, work with a covered grill to help control heat and prevent flare-ups. Always allow time to preheat the grill. Charcoal should burn until embers glow red and are covered in gray ash.

Gas grills need to be preheated to prevent sticking and allow for maximum defined grill marks, which equal flavor. Second, a preheated grill grate prevents sticking. Always clean the grates — it's easiest to do this when they are hot.

Clean grill grates help prevent sticking. Never oil the grill grates — rather, oil the fish instead. Don't overdo the smoke; most seafood needs just a minimum of added smoke flavor.

Add just a few soaked wood chips to the coals or the smoker basket of a gas grill. Use moderately high heat for seafood, but have a cooler section of the grill available if the browning gets away from you. Have the fish sit at room temperature for 10 to 20 minutes before cooking.

Calculate eight to 10 minutes of grill time per inch of fish. In general, I set the timer for the first side to be a minute or two longer than the total cooking time. For example, to cook a 1-inch-thick piece of halibut, I leave it untouched on the grill for five minutes.

Then flip it for the remaining cooking time of three to five minutes. Do not fuss — flipping food over and over again on the grill decreases the .