In the mountains southeast of the pottery town of Mashiko sits a serene temple complex with roots that date back to the eighth century. Today it is relatively quiet and likely sees most visitors because it is Temple 20 of the Bando 33 Kannon pilgrimage. But its history, sylvan setting, and venerable artwork make Saimyoji a beautiful spot to visit.

History Saimyoji is one of the four oldest temples of eastern Japan. It was founded in 737AD by Arimaro Ki, scion of an ancient family of warriors and literati that later became the Mashiko family from which the town derives its name. Like many temples of that period, it was dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy.

It served as a monastery during its earliest days so that by the end of the eighth century there were twelve separate residential structures for the monks who lived there. Around this time, Kobo Daishi (744-835) visited and planned the overall layout of the temple grounds. The entire temple complex was destroyed by fire in 1127, the victim of a local military skirmish.

Since soldiers often sought shelter in temples in those times, battles regularly ensued, resulting in destruction of temples. It was 50 years before Saimyoji could be rebuilt. Not long after that, Yoritomo Minamoto (1147-1199), Japan’s first-ever shogun, visited the temple with his second son when they made the 1,300 km.

trek to establish the Bando 33 Kannon pilgrimage course that remains popular to this day. Alas, the temple was destroyed by ba.