Nearly four hours south of Prague, this fairy-tale town of 13,000 is buried in the hills of the southern Czech Republic, an area much appreciated for its pastoral countryside. With its delightfully cobbled Old Town, rare Baroque theater, and colorful castle, Český Krumlov feels lost in a time warp. The town has long attracted visitors.

Tucked into a hairpin bend in the Vltava River, it was a safe, choice spot for Celtic, then German, then Slavic tribes to settle. In the 16th century – the town’s golden age – Český Krumlov hosted artists, scientists, and alchemists from all over Europe. These days, visitors set their sights on the mighty castle , which perches on a rock promontory overlooking the Vltava River and the town.

The Rožmberk family ran the city from here for three centuries, until about 1600. The interior of the castle, which you can visit only on a one-hour escorted tour, gives a glimpse of the ultimate in Bohemian noble living through the ages. The castle has several other sights.

The strikingly colorful round tower, featuring a 163-step climb to the top, was built to guard the medieval river crossing. Bear pits hold a family of European brown bears, as they have since the Rožmberks added these animals to their coat of arms in the 16th century. A 2,300-foot-long garden boasts a mix of French and English styles.

It was laid out in the 17th century, when the noble family would have it lit with 22,000 oil lamps, torches, and candles for special occa.