I could have easily missed my reservation at Umu. Hidden behind a vast wall, you have to know where you’re going. A discreet tap on a wooden door ushers you inside – and it is a world far removed from the bustling streets of Mayfair.
Entering Umu is to step out of reality and into a kingdom where waiters silently observe your every move, and dinner costs more over a month’s rent — mine at least. It seems that Jews eat more sushi than matzah ball soup, so Umu felt like a natural choice for a review. Celebrating 20 years this year and boasting two Michelin stars, this is a far cry from pre-prepared platters served after Shul.
This is the world of Kyoto cuisine of which I knew nothing. Hidden behind a door in Mayfair, you have to know where you're going The maître d', exemplified the famed Japanese hospitality, walking us through every choice. Dozens of staff glide silently across the cavernous room, popoulated by only eight other diners.
The service is so impeccable you’d swear they’re reading your mind. My glass was never empty and the moment I had a question, another waiter popped up to explain. Because this is food that needs interpreting.
Elegant morsels are presented in ornate arrangements, and each complex fragment has a story. This is dining, a traditional Japanese experience where the chef presents the best of what is on offer. Chef Ryo Kamatsu heads up his army of chefs across two kitchens, with the sushi bar on full display revealing men silently cutting.