A change is as good as a holiday, so they say. So when a restaurant that has garnered as stellar a reputation as ASKR announces a new pop-up then its likely to be worth embracing the change. Plaice kicked off on 12 September, offering a menu devoted to Scotland’s seafood larder in ASKR restaurant.

Situated on Constitution Street, a hop, skip and jump from the tram stop at the shore in Leith the restaurant is a cosy space that’s the perfect place to enjoy as the nights draw in. The menu lends itself well to sharing small plates, but there’s plenty on offer for those old-fashioned souls who miss dining from their own plate too. First up for us are the ceps on toast (£10), a hearty chunk of sourdough with a generous heap of tender, meaty mushrooms.

And half a dozen oysters (£18), the dressing for these changes daily, but ours were looking resplendent in a tangy lime granita. The hot smoked salmon (£9) was rich and with an outrageously creamy potato salad provided a swift change of pace from the fresh and zingy oysters, while I struggled to convince Mr B that he should relinquish just one of his deliciously sweet Portuguese-style clams (£14) in a garlic and white wine sauce. From the specials board, the lobster tagliatelle (£29) was a triumphant bowl of perfectly tender pasta, chunks of rich and sweet lobster and a rich and buttery bisque.

While the Scottish tuna with chilli and daikon salad (£29) was a generous portion of seed encrusted meaty loin, with a sweet and p.