This article is part of Traveller’s Holiday Guide to train journeys. See all stories . It’s 6am.
Central Jakarta is no less busy for the wee hours, with motorbikes dodging shiny black SUVs, the occasional slow-moving food carts pedalled by sinewy old men reminding me that pace isn’t everybody’s prerogative. Outside Pasar Senen central railway station, the frenetic atmosphere is slightly heightened as passengers find parking spaces, drag heavy luggage, jab fingers at phones, their morning focused on catching a train. Travelling in style – the Amajiwo train trip.
The next one, the Fajar Utama Yogya, which fittingly translates as “dawn”, will depart on time at 6.40am, according to the overhanging platform sign. The efficient business-class service shuttles passengers each way between Jakarta, the Indonesian capital, and Yogyakarta, the Central Java capital.
The eight-hour journey follows an east-west corridor of truly spectacular scenery, with regional stops along the way. As I trot along the platform, I sidestep into one of the orange-striped silver carriages for a quick sticky beak and am pleasantly surprised by the creature comforts within. The air-con is on, and smart blue-striped leather lounge seats, two on either side of the aisle, look comfortable enough to snooze in.
There are electric sockets next to each seat, a TV and overhead baggage compartments. Through a sliding door, the dining car is set up for socialising with four seats to each table. A poster t.