A weekend in Nice, the French Riviera’s unofficial capital and a magnet for European aristocracy since Queen Victoria’s reign, could happily be spent simply enjoying its world-famous beach and promenade. But “Nissa la Bella,” or “Nice the Beautiful,” is more than sipping a floral Hugo spritz or splashing on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. France’s second-most-visited city, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021, brims with the unexpected, including a wealth of prehistory and ancient ruins and newer attractions like a summer-only bar hidden in the back of a church.
What can be anticipated is a busier peak season, thanks to spillover from the Paris Olympics (listen for the roars of soccer fans coming from Nice Stadium). ITINERARY Friday 3pm | Stroll flea markets Nice, most likely settled around 350 B.C.
by Greek mariners called Phocaeans, has been a port town for thousands of years. Stroll the still lively waterfront to grab a quick coffee (from 2 euros, or US$2.16) at the vegan cafe Full Bloom, just off Rue Cassini, before a short walk south to Les Puces de Nice, the flea market.
Thirty or so little stalls, once huts for local fishermen, are packed with curiosities and treasures like vintage Hermes scarves and antique silverware. The flea markets border on the Quartier des Antiquaires, with stores offering furniture, books, militaria, clothing and art. In the summer, a restored pointu (a traditional fishing boat) called Lou Passagin shuttles people ac.