Winding through the lawless, rugged hills of northern Myanmar, National Highway 3 links a stunning series of victories by ethnic rebels and pro-democracy fighters in their war against the junta. An offensive launched a year ago Sunday has seen opponents of the military seize much of the 480-kilometre-long (300-mile) route that connects second city Mandalay to China, Myanmar's biggest trade partner. Control of the road denies the junta lucrative taxes, threatens its bases in the central plains, and is a huge morale booster for its opponents as the civil war grinds through its fourth year.
AFP images from National Highway 3 show the destruction wrought by the previous year's fighting and rebel groups trying to administer their newly seized territory. The route begins at Muse, a town of ill-repute pressed up against the border with China. Each morning, hundreds of locals queued for day passes to cross into China to buy medicine and consumer goods that can be re-sold back in Myanmar.
More than $2 billion worth of trade passed through Muse in the 2023-2024 financial year, according to the junta's commerce ministry. Analysts say much more goes through off the books. But following the rebels' spectacular advance, venturing into the hinterland from Muse requires some savvy -- and cash -- said Aung Gyi, a driver.
"We're OK if we can negotiate when we meet with ethnic rebel soldiers on roads and they ask for money," he said, asking to use a pseudonym. Around an hour from Muse was a che.