Share to Facebook Share to Twitter Share to Linkedin The chef in his catsuit, which he often wears during service The songbirds are the first clue. Their calls greet guests as they enter the vestibule of Aqua Crua , a funhouse of avant-garde gastronomy in a small town in Italy’s staid Veneto region. They serve as the soundtrack for the whole experience.

They signal that chef Giuliano Baldessari’s version of fine dining is different. It’s not bound by traditions or rules, it’s closely connected to nature, and it’s not afraid to be screechy and discordant. Baldessari is a sensitive soul.

The birds—mostly colorful little things—are there to bring smiles to arriving diners’ faces, he says, but also because he worried they would be too cold in the mountains. Nature strikes a strong chord with him. “Since I was a child, I have been hyperactive,” he says, “growing up in the forests of Trentino and fishing in streams, building dams and engaging in activities that made me happy and tired.

I still spend most of my free time in the woods searching for rare herbs, mushrooms, wild fruits, or simply embracing trees and enjoying their energy.” Chef Giuliano Baldessari out of his latex, holding one of his rescued birds Those idyllic moments were bright spots in a chaotic childhood. A troubled adolescence gave way to salvation in the kitchen.

He opened Aqua Crua in 2014 and was rewarded with a Michelin star within a year. The accolades have continued, including from th.