Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: New Ross has got lucky with high-low haven Bearú, which serves up both style and taste on a plate

I’ve long been a fan of the high-low dining trend and it seems I’m not alone. When I say high-low, I mean really ambitious, high-end cool and stylish plates, served in casual and relaxed settings. Places where you’re not expected to whisper to one another in virtual adulation of what’s on the plate — where you can appreciate the artwork and talent of the chef but you don’t quite have to genuflect as you reverse out the door.

Great food in casual settings is what people want nowadays, says our food critic, as she checks out the new Bearú in Wexford Acai Smoothie Bowl With Granola & Berries. Bearú in New Ross. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan I’ve long been a fan of the high-low dining trend and it seems I’m not alone.

When I say high-low, I mean really ambitious, high-end cool and stylish plates, served in casual and relaxed settings. Places where you’re not expected to whisper to one another in virtual adulation of what’s on the plate — where you can appreciate the artwork and talent of the chef but you don’t quite have to genuflect as you reverse out the door. This style of dining reflects the change in customer desires nowadays, and indeed the number of restaurants that have closed.

Quite a few longstanding restaurants, taking this on board, shut their doors briefly before reopening with a change of image. Join the Irish Independent WhatsApp channel Stay up to date with all the latest news.