Good Food hat 15 / 20 How we score Contemporary $$ $$ Some restaurant openings thrill because they bring something wholly new to the city: a vibe or cuisine or set of sensibilities we’ve not seen before. Others feel magical almost for the opposite reason: they fit so well into the landscape of Melbourne, its aesthetic and personality, that it seems they were always here, and walking in feels like coming home. The latter is true for Reed House , the new restaurant in the manse building that was originally a home for the minister who worked at the adjacent Wesleyan Church.

It’s directly across the courtyard from Caretaker’s Cottage , the cocktail bar that’s become an international darling. The two venues have a lot in common, the most obvious being the nature of the bluestone buildings they occupy, and the repurposing of those spaces for modern needs. The location is a huge part of the delight of Reed House: entering through the big old front door; basking in the sunlight streaming in through the arched windows surrounded by bluestone; sitting in rooms that exude history.

You could be dining in a European country town, but because you’re familiar with our city’s bones, its past hidden in laneways and crevices, you know you’re in Melbourne. The other commonality with Caretaker’s is in Reed House’s spirit, forged by young owners with passion and talent. It’s run by Mark Hannell and Rebecca Baker, a chef and front-of-house duo (and couple) who met while working.