I've been to North Korea more than 180 times. Here's how tourists can stay out of trouble.

Simon Cockerell, a tour operator, has visited North Korea more than 180 times. North Korea is opening partially to tourism for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic. This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Simon Cockerell, a manager at the travel agency Koryo Tours.

It has been edited for length and clarity. The first time I went to North Korea, I thought I knew what to expect. I was living in Beijing at the time, which was near North Korea.

I figured it would be a bit like China or a bit like Russia. There are definitely those elements, especially if you look for them; but the reality is that it is its own place. In the two decades since then, I've visited North Korea more than 180 times on various tours and trips — perhaps the most of any Westerner.

North Korea has been closed to visitors for almost five years, but is partially opening up to tourists at the end of 2024. I've shown hundreds of visitors around the country over the years, and if you've ever thought of visiting, this is how to get the most out of a trip to North Korea. Careful what you talk about Interacting with the local people and tour guides in the country is not like meeting aliens — it's actually one of my favorite things to do.

The fact remains though, that when you're allowed to interact with them, you need to watch what you talk about. You don't have to go around praising North Korea's leaders, but openly criticizing Kim Jong Un is a definite no-no. I'm technically allowed to tal.