In his spring/summer 2025 collection, Erdem Moralioglu reflected on gender identity, love and purpose. Drawing inspiration from the 1928 lesbian novel The Well of Loneliness , by Radclyffe Hall , the designer paid homage to its multi-faceted characters – and Hall’s own journey towards living her truth. Adam Garland mapped out the hair look, mirroring Erdem’s vision.
“The main look is a strong side-part, creating a graphic, masculine silhouette,” he told Vogue backstage. “The hair is strict and tight at the top, which cascades down into a braid which adds that feminine touch. We used the Authentic Beauty Concept Working Hairspray , which also has great heat protection and allows me to make adjustments later.
For the models with shorter hair, we used the Cosmic Blowdry Jelly, which is due to be released in February. It leaves the hair movable until it’s set and doesn’t give us any flaky residue. Just before the models took off down the runway, we touched up the hair with the Pliable Styling Paste .
The texture is creamy and soft, adding that final element of sheen. Erdem focused on playing with structure in the clothes, so it was important to reflect that with the hair too,” Garland explained. Longer afro-textured hair was cornrowed with extensions, creating a sleek pattern close to the scalp.
The make-up also leaned into the genderless theme. “The look consists of clean, boyish skin with masculine features, such as brushed-up brows, with a little bit of dar.