Vivienne Westwood’s spring/summer 25 collection showcased some unorthodox ‘quiet luxury’ alongside its quintessentially punk designs at Paris Fashion Week. Ex-Victoria’s Secret model Irina Shayk closed the show, making her second Paris Fashion Week appearance in a simple, oversized white suit, paired with pearly skin and natural, loose hair. The theme of the Vivienne Westwood show was ‘calibrate’, meaning to ascertain the quality of character of something or someone.
It appears Andreas Kronthaler, the widower of the late designer who took over as creative director of the fashion house, was attempting to calibrate where Eighties’ punk fits in modern society. With looks featuring 1980s’ satin, tartan skirts and platform heels paired with contrasting tights – all reminiscent of the eponymous late designer’s 1993 show, Anglomania – the garments were paired with bulky headphones, disco glasses and 2010s’ wrap dresses. It was a mish-mash of sultry sheer gowns, retro parkas, pops of punky tartan and sophisticated workwear.
Accessories including excessive pearls, vibrant block-coloured glasses, and sparkling metallic jewellery evoked the sense of a child having riffled through their mother’s wardrobe. Yet, there was a sustained focus throughout the diverse collection. Kronthaler was preoccupied with lines – whether printed onto the garments or experimented within the silhouettes.
The show explored the human form and where the eye is drawn on a body. The co.