This story is part of the September 22 edition of Sunday Life. See all 14 stories . It’s a mild winter midweek evening and South Bank is rocking.

Al fresco bars and restaurants are packed with suits, students, families and tourists. Young lovers, impervious to the chill, drape themselves languidly along the river bank. Joggers negotiate the parklands, bright with jewel-like strings of coloured lights.

There’s a vibe, an energy, in Brisbane that no one would have associated with the once staid provincial capital a decade ago. This is a city with confidence. It’s also a top town for visitors – compact and easy to navigate.

Brisbane has transformed into a city with confidence. Credit: Stocksy The Brisbane River runs through the city and there’s no better way to explore it all than by foot and ferry. There are plenty of river cruise options and even kayak tours, but the CityCat and KittyCat ferry services are efficient, frequent and a great way to get your bearings.

Start at the cultural precinct, a South Bank highlight. QAGOMA might be an unwieldy and ugly acronym but the art spaces are top-notch, often delivering more innovative exhibitions and programs than its interstate counterparts. The Gallery of Modern Art has been on my radar since its American Impressionism and Realism show in 2009 and the city’s cultural offerings bring me here often.

From GOMA a ferry will zip you across to one of the waterfront restaurants at Howard Smith Wharves for lunch. This former in.