Hot Dogs by Three Darlings , Dining Hall, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL (0207 225 6800). Hot dogs £19-£22, desserts £12, wines from £50 It is fitting that the Harrods Dining Hall, home to Hot Dogs by Three Darlings, which I visited before the recent re-emergence of the shocking allegations against its previous owner, is reached via the store’s luxury accessories department. Because, like the concessions belonging to Givenchy and Loro Piana standing sentry either side of the doorway, the counter sells things that absolutely no one needs.
There, sadly, the similarity must end. For while we might blanch at the price of a Givenchy handbag, we can at least admire the craftwork required to produce one. Nobody in possession of their right wits could admire the work that has gone into these dainty “gourmet” hot dogs, costing up to £22 a pop.
Few should want them. The problem begins with the premise. Just as terms like “ethical banking” and “civilised Martini hour” suggest someone is doing it all wrong, the idea of the fancy hot dog misses the point.
If you have ever eaten a classic hot dog, say off a Manhattan street cart, you will understand the principles. It shouldn’t feel like an act of self-care. It should be an indulgence.
And it most definitely is not just some gnarly sausage in a bun. It is a smoked wiener or frankfurter. The casing should have a light snap beneath the teeth that immediately releases a burst of hot, savoury juices.
Accord.