YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, Wyoming — The conifer-fringed shore and crystal-clear water of Shoshone Lake reminds me of the Maine woods. Standing on the gravel crescent of Basin Beach deep in the backcountry of America’s first national park (1872), I’m suddenly overcome with nostalgia for home. I’ve been out here a long time, that’s for sure.
The Continental Divide Trail extends about 2,800 miles from Mexico to Canada through New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming and Montana. Carey Kish photo There’s no time for such ruminations, however, as I fend off a cloud of mosquitoes. The day’s second thunderstorm is upon me, complete with gusty winds and cold, pelting rain.
I pitch my shelter, toss the gear inside and quickly follow suit. The dark sky cracks open with a violent boom and the floodgates of the inevitable downpour open wide. A half-hour later, the tent is festooned with wet clothing and equipment.
Dead bugs litter the space and more await their fate. Despite the chaos outside and in, I’m dry and happy snuggled in my down bag and puffy jacket. Bags of snacks and a can of craft beer purchased at the Grant Village park concession serve as both happy hour and supper.
The following day is beautifully blue and delightfully cool. At noon I reach the Grand Loop Road, the demarcation line between the lonely country behind and the mass of humanity just ahead. I stroll into Old Faithful Village and join an international crowd of several thousand onlookers just as the famous g.