Copy link Copied Copy link Copied Subscribe to gift this article Gift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe. Already a subscriber? Login There are still patches of snow on the ground when I arrive at the Nikka distillery in Yoichi, on Hokkaido’s west coast. It’s mid-April and further south the rest of Japan is basking in a balmy spring: in Tokyo a couple of days ago it was T-shirt weather; travelling through Hirosaki on the way up here the cherry blossoms were in full bloom.

But at Yoichi the air is crisp and cold, the sky is grey, the trees are bare. Copy link Copied Copy link Copied Subscribe to gift this article Gift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe. Already a subscriber? Login Follow the topics, people and companies that matter to you.

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