When I was 14, in 1978, having won a special mention in British Vogue ’s annual talent contest for young writers, I was asked by Bea Miller, then the editor in chief, if she could do anything for me. Because I had nothing to lose, I said, “Well, in my dreams I’d like a ticket to the next Bill Gibb fashion show.” To my astonishment, a ticket was duly summoned, and there in a hotel ballroom my cup ran over as I saw models like Jerry Hall and Marie Helvin strutting their long-legged stuff in clothes that were a dream to me, all foxtails and jersey and shiny lace.
Growing up in the difficult Britain of the ’70s (three-day working weeks, IRA bombings, my parents’ divorce), I lost myself in the magic of early fashion. Thankfully, an extraordinary new immersive exhibition at London’s Lightroom is re-creating that sense of wonder that I had all those years ago. Vogue: Inventing the Runway opening this autumn, explores the history of the runway show with film and images from different periods (Gabrielle Chanel showing her latest creations in the ’30s, the refinement of Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga in the ’40s and ’50s, the edginess of John Galliano and Lee McQueen in the ’90s, and on and on) – replete with stories of the guests in attendance, from socialites to the all-important store buyers to the influencers and the celebrities of today’s shows.
From Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon, who wowed Belle Époque Britain (and France, and America) with her.