Averting briefly from the natural shyness typical of Borneo’s Sabahan people, Richard Masalan’s eyes light up on recalling a midnight trip to a jungle loo. “I remember at the study centre once at Maliau Basin, the electricity is only provided until midnight,” Masalan said with a cheeky grin as he told his story in the shadows next to the pristine blue waters of Kota Kinabalu’s Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. “In the middle of the night, I woke up looking for the toilet and suddenly heard something outside.

I shone my torchlight and there was this big wild boar in front of me. Wow, yes. “And then I look in the field just at the front of the study centre and I can see, like, 100 wild deer.

It’s just the best there, amazing. “The Maliau Basin is kind of like a lost world in Borneo. I just love the nature.

” Masalan, originally from Kota Marudu in Sabah’s Kudat division and now 35 years of age, was a little lost in life before he quit his part-time job cleaning hotel rooms to pursue the Amazing Borneo tourism guide job he has now held for a decade. English was his favourite subject at school and he is good at speaking it and equally good at his job. Flying back into Kota Kinabalu for the third time in my life and feeling the bounce of the plane tyres after seeing the city’s lights just before midnight after a long day flying from Vietnam, was pure delight.

I’ve seen the main sights before and I could barely wait to do it again. Sure, you can shop until you drop .