From fine dining to food stalls, pursuing the perfect bite in Hong Kong

Standing outside a bakery in a long queue in Wanchai isn’t exactly how I expected to spend my final afternoon in Hong Kong, but when you find the perfect pastry, that’s exactly what you have to do. And I’d absolutely do it again. Unlike traditional Chinese egg tarts, which are created with a shortcrust pastry shell, the egg tarts at Bakehouse have a sourdough croissant crust oozing with fresh egg custard, lightly blistered on top. There’s a reason why this reimagined take on a heritage pastry from chef Grégoire Michaud has emerged as one of the city’s most sought-after snacks. The star of their bakery used to be the croissant, but it generated quite a lot of wasted dough trimmings from the cutting triangles. So Michaud tested out using the “Roger” sourdough on the egg tarts. The results? “Magical,” he tells Mapped. A new spin on a classic, the sourdough tart is emblematic of the innovation and artistry of Hong Kong’s food scene, where new classics are created from the minds of innovative chefs, all while paying homage to the institutions that came before. “Egg tarts have been a quintessential part of Hong Kong because they’re a cultural icon that blends Eastern and Western flavours,” Michaud tells Mapped. “It’s quite symbolic of Hong Kong’s history since it became popular during the British colonial days as a staple in local bakeries and dim sum restaurants. It’s part of the collective food memory of Hongkongers.”From elevated Michelin-starred fine dining sit-down dinners to cheap and cheerful food stalls and rough-and-ready indoor food markets, Hong Kong is a food lover’s absolute paradise. There is truly something for everyone. As a Canadian visiting Hong Kong for the first time, the sea of choices for diners can seem almost overwhelming. But with some planning ahead, you can get a taste of everything the city has to offer. Here’s our easy first-timer’s guide to getting into Hong Kong’s cuisine, from coffee shops to bars, restaurants, and street stalls. COLOURFUL STREET EATS AND ICONIC LEGENDS There’s no better way to immerse yourself in the city’s foodie scene than by taking a walking tour to experience the sights and sounds of the food stalls and iconic food vendors.Starting around the Mid-Level Escalators and walkway system in Central, make your first stop at the tiny green stall Lan Fong Yuen for an iced milk tea.Heralded for inventing the so-called silk stocking milk tea, which was originally strained through pantyhose, for the past 70 years, this stall — one of the most historic cha chaan tengs — has been serving up creamy Indian Assam black tea, served either hot or cold. Pair it with its renowned French toast or bun and condensed milk for the full experience. A must-try for pastry lovers, Tai Cheong Bakery serves up one of the city’s most classic egg tarts. Started more than a half-century ago, the bakery — which apparently reached its peak of popularity when it drew the attention of then governor of HK, Chris Patten — is known for its creamy tarts and Chinese donuts. For around $2 each, savour a melt-in-your-mouth creamy tart, or try a salted egg yolk pastry, shortcrust chicken pie, or sweet Chinese donut. Noted by Michelin in 2009 and now a chain of noodle restaurants, Mak’s Noodles on Wellington is the OG for shrimp wonton noodles and is beloved by locals and visitors alike. A nod to the roots of traditional Cantonese cuisine, stop in for a quick bowl of egg-flavoured shrimp wonton noodles in blue and white porcelain crockery while watching chefs hand crimp wontons in the window.THE INNOVATORS AND ARTISTS Greeted by an eight-foot banana peel with a banana in its mouth, as soon as you enter Bo Innovation in Central, you know you’re in for an experience like no other. Created by Alvin Leung, best known in this country for his acerbic wit as a MasterChef Canada judge for the last seven seasons in Hong Kong, the so-called Demon Chef is playfully breaking down culinary boundaries with food that is truly edible art. The courses here reflect the changes and evolution of HK cuisine (think a savoury martini with homemade prawn oil, taro cakes with caviar and gold leaf and “not shark fin soup” served in individual tureens and laden with citrus and edible flower petals).Even the art collages of suitcases on the walls reflect the exoduses from Hong Kong in the past century, including his family’s own in the 1960s when they left for Canada. His current “Back to Hong Kong” menu is inspired by the city and literally trying to lure young people back at a time when locals are crossing the border for the weekend to look for new experiences.Cheffe Vicky Lau, born and raised in Hong Kong, breaks tradition in a wholly different way. She puts her own feminine and artistic spin on Chinese fine dining, weaving a tapestry of influences from Cantonese, Chaozhou, Shanghaiese, and Western cuisines. Her picture-perfect spot, TATE Dining Room, on the famed Hollywood Road, is like eating inside a jewel box.With an eight-course tasting menu that sources local ingredients and oozes sophistication, she infuses French technique in every bite of food that is *almost* too pretty to eat. The presentation is immaculate and elevated, honouring local ingredients and traditions but with her own spin.A standout is the “Ode to Langoustine,” delicate seafood on top of a finely chopped lobster ginger salad adorned with yellow wine mayonnaise and oyster sauce. An array of handmade pastries and desserts are served from a custom TATE curio cart and are an artistic end to a bucket list dining experience, the memories of which you will savour for years to come. A TASTE OF THE CELEBRATED Upon entering the Forum in Causeway Bay, you are greeted by a large table of accolades, literally dozens of plaques and statutes received in its storied 40+ years serving up elevated Cantonese cuisine. At circular tables, personal baskets of freshly steamed dumplings arrive in front of each guest.Crispy rice rolls that are soft and pillowy inside, with dried shrimp sauce, are followed by shredded turnip cakes and chunky pork rolls scented with star anise. A standout here is the braised abalone, created by the late chef founder Yeung Koon-yat, the so-called abalone king. For dessert, try the cold mung bean soup, elevated with one of its homemade sweet green mung bean popsicles dipped into the creamy soup. For a meal that is a feast for the eyes and the stomach, Chef Vicky at WING is putting his own spin on the classics, using seasonal ingredients to create a sensory experience with the finest of the “Eight Great” Chinese Cuisines.Macau sole is served whole and steamed, artfully topped with three types of scallion and coriander. Homemade gelatinous “Crystal Golden Egg” century eggs, made with duck eggs, are served alongside Japanese oysters in a spicy chili sauce, adhering to the chef’s rule of thumb in his balanced yet boundaryless Chinese cuisine: The food can be spicy, but the spice cannot linger. Even the humble eggplant is elevated to art piece status: lightly smoked and delicately woven, scented with a homemade sour sauce.THE DOWNHOME FEEL No visit to Hong Kong is complete without visiting a famed night market crammed with open-air stalls and small boutiques of cheap and cheerful goods, including discount suitcases in case you buy a few too many goodies to bring home in your luggage. Among the best markets is in Mong Kok: the Lady Street Market on the Kowloon side. And luckily for foodies, the perfect apres-stopping shop is nestled just above the market. Taking a ride to the second floor on a very cramped elevator (we needed to offload several passengers twice before it would ascend) and past the crowds of young people queued at the front door, you’ll find Ladies Street Sik Fan Co., a nostalgic throwback to the Dai Pai Dong era of the 1980s. Recreating the ambience of open-air food stalls serving up beloved Cantonese classics while sitting on folding chairs and drinking cold beer out of small bowls. While taking in the retro neon signs and iron gates, standouts here include prawn toast with caviar on thick-cut bread, steaming plates of razor clams stir-fried with black bean sauce, onions, and yellow peppers, and old-school sweet and sour fried pork. THE COCKTAIL QUESTWhile the revitalized Lan Kwai Fong district in Central draws the after-work and late-night crowds for drinking, pubbing, and clubbing, the city is also home to some of the most unique and celebrated bars in Asia. On the 45th-floor rooftop of the Landmark complex, take in the sunset views over Hong Kong’s glittering skyline with a crafted cocktail in hand at the Lounge and Sky Terrace at Cardinal Point. With resident DJs every night, this is the place to see and be seen. Inspired by travel, the cocktail program here is whimsical and cheeky, with festive and retro takes on both the unfamiliar and familiar – like the “Pandan Highball,” flavoured with pandan and mandarin and the “Larry Bird,” a white negroni with bitter bianco and pineapple skin.With panoramic views over Victoria Harbour, The Aubrey inside the Mandarin Oriental is one of the prettiest and coziest bars, with one of the most innovative and elevated cocktail programs in the city. Here, beverage manager Devender Sehgal’s reputation for creating innovative cocktails with niche Japanese ingredients has cemented this aesthetic bar into one of the city’s must-visit destinations and an award winner — named one of Asia’s top 10 best bars after only a few years in operation.Embracing the philosophy of Kaizen—a lifelong commitment to encouraging continuous improvement—libations here are flavourful and playful. Try the “In Between The Line” with shochu, gin, basil, and habanero. With sweet, sour, and herbal notes, it’s a refreshing and invigorating thirst quencher. The Aubrey also offers an omakase cocktail experience, which takes you on a guided journey through rare Japanese spirits and flavours, introducing patrons to the brewers and distillers they may not be aware of (but will be shouting from the rooftops about).Fresh off being named number two in the prestigious “World’s 50 Best Bars” list, Bar Leone is a neighbourhood gem that focuses on warmth and hospitality in a cozy room where friends can share stories and snacks.The cocktail list is rife with classics with a twist, like the Yuzu Americano with yuzu sake, bitter fuzetti and cucumber, and inventive newcomers like the Il Cacciatore, flavoured with cherry tomato and basil, lemon and Sabatini gin and horseradish. If you like an extra kick, the King Kong Old Fashioned incorporates hints of toasted coconut and Nikka Days whisky. And don’t sleep on a mortadella sandwich, which has now become the most sought-after food item on the menu. ENJOY A SEASONAL FOOD FESTIVAL While HK is a hub for music, food, and cultural festivals and events all year round, if you’re lucky enough to visit in the fall, the Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival is a bucket list visit for wine lovers and foodies alike.The five-day annual event, held on a waterfront site under the dazzling city skyline, features over 300 wineries and food booths. In addition to standard offerings from more popular wine regions, the festival offers a chance to sample hidden gems from lesser-known wine regions and within China.The festival also marks the kickoff of “Taste Around Town,” a monthlong culinary festival where hundreds of bars and restaurants around the city offer special menus and great discounts. JOURNEY TO HK My culinary journey to Hong Kong started before I even boarded my flight, with a visit to the famed Cathay Pacific lounge at YVR. Offering counter service views into the dim sum kitchen, you can order fresh dim sum and dan dan noodles to slurp up before getting on board your flight. The author of this article was hosted by the Hong Kong Tourism Bureau