Now, London has gone full bouchon (Lyonnaise style restaurant). Harris is back, rattling pans at Bouchon Racine (good luck getting a booking), and bouchon-inspired spots are springing up faster than champignons after a downpour: Josephine Bouchon, Henri, Café Francois, Marceline – proof, if it were needed, that the Gallic revival is in full swing. And Dublin? Rien du tout.
Until now. John and Sandy Wyer got wind that the space above O’Brien’s pub, conveniently next door to their fine dining spot, Forest Avenue, on Sussex Terrace, had become available. Formerly The Sussex, the room came pre-loaded with bistro charm: Victorian flourishes, casual wooden tables, and banquettes you can sink into.
A few tweaks later, et voilà – a proper bistro, at last. They’ve named it Forêt, staying true to their woodland theme (see also: Little Forest in Blackrock). The menu is a celebration of French cooking at its most confident.
Petites Assiettes (snacks) include house-made saucisson, leek vinaigrette, Bayonne ham and oysters mignonette (€3 each), a bright and briny opener. From the tempting Les Entrées, comes the terrine de campagne (€16). This rustic staple, straight from the bouchon playbook, is robust, slightly coarse, and made with Oxford Sandy and Black suckling pig from Dermot Allen’s Winetavern Farm in Wicklow.
It’s crowned with an amber gelée, lightly laced with sherry (if I’m not mistaken), delivering a rich, savoury depth when spread onto the toasted s.