Even on the many occasions I’ve taken the wonderful slow route by sea to France, I’ve almost always rushed through Brittany. No sooner have I landed at Roscoff than my mind is on getting onto the nearest dual carriageway, speeding past the artichoke fields and Gaulish villages to get to my end destination. This time, my plan was to see the land of our great Celtic neighbours not in a blur, but up close and personal on a slow-moving boat through its enchanting waterways.

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