Four Heavenly Ongs (left), as well as White Pepper Crab from Enjoy Eating House. Enjoy Eating House I have always thought that Enjoy Eating House is too under the radar. Chef Joel Ong, 37, serves the kind of punchy, wok hei-infused food I enjoy.

I love his Opeh Leaf Hokkien Mee ($40), with very intense prawn stock and expert charring; and Ugly Cabbage In Fish Sauce ($16), just two ingredients elevated by expert wok work. Now, there is more reason to eat there. He and his business partner James Ang, 37, have updated their menu with new dishes, and four of them are standouts.

The best one is Four Heavenly Ongs ($19), a stir-fry of wing bean, lady’s finger, brinjal and petai. When the plate hits the table, that smoky wok hei aroma is instantly appetising. What I want is a big pile of rice to go with it.

Rice would also be perfect with the rich gravy of Rolls Royce Rendang Beef Short Rib ($52), fall-off-the-bone from 48 hours of low and slow cooking. Cashews and coconut milk thicken the sauce magnificently. But then I would have to miss out on Kup Rice ($18), named after the sound of a metal bowl of yam rice being flipped onto a plate before serving.

That rice is a smoky umami bomb, with dried shrimps, chestnuts and mushrooms. It is good enough as is, but the dish also comes with a shiny block of braised pork belly. Rounding up the best four is White Pepper Crab ($14), reimagined as chawanmushi.

No need to get the hands dirty either. The silky egg is a great foil for the very p.