14 / 20 How we score Italian $ $$$ The fried chicken sandwich at Tonino’s International, a new cafe, delicatessen and restaurant inside Harris Farm at Drummoyne, is one of the most intimidating things I’ve encountered on a plate all year. I’m not even sure it can be called a sandwich. “Cucumber, shredded lettuce and a massive hunk of battered chook barely held together on a seeded bun,” would be a better description.
“Finish it without a stream of kimchi-infused mayonnaise running down your arms and eat for free.” In any case, I’m all for it. Tonino’s opened four months ago in a space previously home to Salts Meat Cheese.
Co-founders Isabella Daniali, Stefano De Caro and Luca Batella (Daniali and De Caro also run Surry Hills’ Cicerone Cucina Romana) are committed to creating a proper “Italian bistro” for Victoria Road, and the menu is built around pizza and pasta with a big ol’ fried chicken sandwich thrown in for good measure. Sandwich watch: Find this bulging fried chicken filled bun at a secret supermarket deli It’s $21, by the way, which seems quite reasonable given the chook thigh is wider than most pub schnitzels. Audibly crunchy batter gives way to juicy, corn-fed chicken brined in buttermilk and harissa (North Africa’s No.
1 chilli paste), with melted cheese putting an oozy bow on it. Unlike Tonino’s antipasto and pizzas, it’s not available for delivery, which is probably a good thing for couch upholstery across the inner west. There�.