We interact with fabrics every day: through what we wear, the cloths and towels we clean and dry our bodies with, the sheets we sleep on. At the spring/summer 2025 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week, which took place in the Danish capital last week, designers rose to that challenge. Copenhagen’s biggest fashion event is known for its Earth-conscious agenda.

It was the first fashion week to enforce sustainability requirements for brands showing on its schedule, spanning everything from the use of smart material to their production and labour practices, so it not surprising that innovative fabrics formed a common thread at this year’s event. At an intimate presentation in the brand’s own studio, hangers displayed looks featuring antique lace and velvet, and Indian silks layered under Japanese indigo-dyed cotton. The result was luxuriously worldly but distinctly Danish in execution, with Malling’s eye for colour and texture helping bring the disparate pieces of the puzzle together in a seemingly effortless way.

Another take on deadstock made noise at (di)vision, a Copenhagen-based streetwear-adjacent brand known for its viral fashion show moments: last year’s autumn show saw a model rise from a table, taking with her the tablecloth, which was attached to her dress – cutlery and all. This season, founder Simon Wick’s collection was an ode to urban maximalism, and fused upcycling with childhood nostalgia and grunge. Reworked cycling jerseys, military uniforms and den.