It is often noted that the best way to learn about the culture of a country is to eat that country’s food. The Japanese Festival at the Missouri Botanical Garden, Aug. 31-Sept.
2, has been held annually since 1977 (except the COVID year of 2020), and the food has consistently been one of the biggest draws. In past years, the crowds — and there are always crowds — have enjoyed the likes of okonomiyaki, a savory, pancake-shaped fritter filled with cabbage and other vegetables, and chicken katsu, a fried cutlet coated in panko bread crumbs. And then there are the gyoza (steamed or pan-fried dumplings), wagashi (colored and intricately shaped confections made from sticky mochi rice, bean paste and fruit) and the spice mix called togarashi served on fries.
But if the 45,000 people (over three days) who will pack the Botanical Garden come for the food — and the cooking demonstrations, and the tea ceremonies — they always stay for the performances, and the demonstrations, and the artists. This year’s featured performer is Kanariya Eiraku, who specializes in a storytelling style called rakugo. In this style, a single performer tells a comedic story featuring many characters, which he distinguishes by using different voices.
One of the biggest draws every year is the sumo wrestlers, says Steve Mitori, a vice president of the Japanese American Citizens League. This year’s lineup includes three wrestlers (rikishi) who are massively popular in the world of sumo: Hiroki, Men.