Documentaries centered around the fashion world — in particular, the often-enigmatic designers that power it — have become a powerful subgenre in the nonfiction space for a decade and more. Designer Thom Browne has long been admired as an American classic, but has more recently become a red carpet fixture and the object of obsession of Hollywood’s A-list. Two-plus decades after his very short pants suit provided a menswear companion to the iconic DVF wrap dress, Browne is seemingly everywhere — from the kitchens of “The Bear” to the ubiquitous stairs of the Met Gala.
This year marks his own turn in the doc seat with “Thom Browne: The Man Who Tailors Dreams,” which premiered as a special presentation for last week’s DocNYC film festival. The film, currently seeking distribution, is directed by Reiner Holzemer. No stranger to the high fashion world, Holzemer has turned in nonfiction projects on designers Dries Van Noten and Martin Margiela.
“Thom is a very mysterious guy. Everything that’s inside of him sort of manifests through his clothes. Like many artists, everything he makes is a bit of a self-portrait,” Holzemer said.
Variety spoke with Browne on the eve of his big premiere to talk humble L.A. beginnings and if he’ll ever make the crossover from runway to the director’s chair.
It was interesting to learn you got your start in L.A. working in production, I feel you’re so identified with New York.
Why didn’t it work out here for you all those.