Good Food hat 15 / 20 How we score Contemporary $$ $$ The main reason people go to an art gallery, let’s face it, is not for the resident restaurant. They go for the art, the exhibitions, the chance to “culture up”. But what if the restaurant were one of the exhibitions? Themed, ever-changing, and with a big name attached? That’s the thinking behind the Museum of Contemporary Art’s new fourth-floor restaurant, appropriately called Canvas.
Melbourne catering ringmaster Bruce Keebaugh of The Big Group was appointed in 2023 to radically change the culinary offerings of the MCA, and he appears to have taken his task seriously. Keebaugh visited the major galleries of Los Angeles, New York, London, Paris and Milan, only to realise that their hospitality partners were locked in by long operational hours, mandated pricing and lack of creativity – and it showed. His new business model relies on a two-speed system, with fine dining supported by events.
It also relies on a seasonal rotation of “artists”, guest chefs renowned for their skills and talent. That’s where Josh Raine, head chef of Tetsuya’s for six years until its closure in July, comes in. Once a cafe, the space has been transformed into a cool, blonde, Scandinavian haven, with statement florals against white marble and pale woods.
Serried ranks of wine glasses and bottles lead the eye to Circular Quay at one window, and the bridge, the other. Tonally, the place is all oatmeal, taupe and putty, so don’t .