Stromboli is an Italian-American invention said to have been created in Philadelphia in the 1950s, but the dish takes its name from an island off the coast of Sicily. Like the calzone, it’s a sort of portable pizza — fillings are enclosed in dough and baked — but more often than not, stromboli is cylindrical. In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street Bakes ,” a sheet of yeasted dough is topped with ingredients, then rolled up and slid into the oven.

We use two melty cheeses and sliced salami, all of it layered on a bed of chopped vegetables and herbs. Capers provide brininess; roasted peppers, onion and parsley balance the richness of the meat and cheese. Don’t fill and roll the dough on the counter.

The unbaked stromboli is awkward and difficult to transfer, so it’s best to work directly on the baking sheet. After rolling, don’t fold the edges of the stromboli under, or the ends will be too thick and bready. Instead, simply pinch the edges to seal.

Finally, be sure to reposition the stromboli diagonally on the baking sheet to give it some room to expand during baking. Slicing reveals tasty spirals of bread and filling. The stromboli is fantastic warm, when the cheese is gooey, but also is delicious at room temperature.

Salami and Cheese Stromboli Start to finish: 3 1/2 hours (40 minutes active), plus cooling Servings: Makes one 16-inch stromboli, serving 6 to 8 Ingredients: 445 grams (31⁄4 cups) bread flour, plus more for dusting 1 teaspoon white sugar.