A wall map in Stornoway’s harbour master’s office shows the waters of the Minch, and the treacherous rocky outcrops, bays and hazards that lurk around the fringes of the Western Isles. Old school maps have long since been overtaken by digital versions, computer programmes and GPS signals, of course, yet barely a day passes that Alasdair Smith doesn’t glance at it. “I like the paper charts,” the harbour master explains.

“They’re big and I find them easy to work with. They’ve been round for centuries but in a few years’ time there won’t be any to be had. Stornoway harbour master Alasdair Smith (Image: Sandie Maciver/SandiePhotos.

com) “Computer charts are very good...

but I’m old fashioned, I like to stand pouring over a paper chart, it’s big and it’s clear.” The charts and his finely tuned mariner’s understanding of the Western Isles’ changeable weather and temperamental waters work hand in hand with modern technology: old ways that have stood centuries of sailors in good stead, in harmony with the new. But, as a new BBC Alba documentary series that focuses on the evolving face of life at Stornoway’s busy harbour shows, time is moving fast at the gateway to the Western Isles.

Over the next few weeks, Stornoway Port Authority’s new Deep Water Terminal will host the last of the tourist season’s cruise ships. This weekend it’s the turn of the 700-passenger Azamara Quest and Nieuw Statendam, with space for up to 2,500 tourists across 12 pas.