Gen Z has been doing its best to bring low-rise trousers back, and now Burberry has given them the high fashion seal of approval. Ultra low-rise trousers populated the British heritage brand’s spring/summer 2025 collection, shown in the halls of the Brutalist National Theatre building on London’s South Bank. The opening look felt like business as usual for creative director Daniel Lee, who was showing his fourth collection at the helm of the brand, since taking over from Riccardo Tisci in 2022.
The simple menswear look featured a white deconstructed trench coat, paired with grey trousers and statement purple shoes. Playing around with trench coats has become a mainstay of Lee’s tenure at Burberry so far, but he soon stepped into new territory. A more utilitarian edge than we’ve ever seen at Burberry ran throughout the clothes, giving them a more streetwear-inspired vibe.
The base Burberry garments were there – sharply tailored jackets, trench coats and trousers – with plenty of straps, buttons, zippers and buckles added into the mix. The colour palette was predominantly neutral, with camels, creams, blacks and greys galore, and the odd pop of colour – a flash of lilac in footwear, or a burst of yellow in a scarf tied around a neck. The neutral colours emphasised this utilitarian aesthetic – some models wore belted camel coats with matching cargo trousers, looking like they were about to step off the runway to fly a plane.
And then there was, of course, the low.