When Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra shut down their Michelin-starred Contra last year, it sent shock waves throughout New York’s culinary scene. Since then, the duo has reimagined that space as Bar Contra —and now they’re back with yet another restaurant. Stone and von Hauske Valtierra are chef-partners in Brass , which opened Thursday at the Evelyn Hotel.
Along with restaurateur Nick Hatsatouris, the two have dreamt up a French brasserie-inspired spot that harkens back to both classic Parisian elegance and current New York cool. The menu starts out with hors d’oeuvre like moules frites with marinated mussels and chickpea fritters, as well as raw-bar items like chilled Atlantic lobster. The small-plate entrées run the gamut from Montauk ruby red prawn tartare with fried garlic, yuzo kosho, and crispy potato to ricotta gnudi with maitake mushrooms, black truffle, and chives.
For main courses, you have the choice of American Wagyu steak with Armagnac-prune purée, sauce au poivre, and Stilton or crusted golden tilefish with tomato, clams, and saffron, among other large dishes. If you’re looking to go all out, there’s the golden Amish chicken roulade for two: a deboned chicken stuffed with herbs and black truffle, the breast and leg wrapped in chicken skin and roasted in garlic. Bar director Tristan Brunel has crafted a cocktail menu for heavy and light drinkers alike.
A section devoted to “classic two sippers” sees iconic cocktails like Negr.