Why have molluscs which grow in estuarine bodies of brackish water long been considered the zenith of luxury entrées? The humble oyster was once considered a food to be reviled, consumed by the working class in stews , casseroles and loaves of bread as a quick, easy and affordable source of protein, so when exactly did public perception shift to place the oyster at the centre of fashionable fine dining? The mollusc has experienced something of a W-curve throughout history. The Greeks and Romans considered oysters to be the ‘Food of Kings’ – after all, the Goddess of Love was born from one. It wasn’t until the 19th century, however, that the Golden Age of Oysters occurred.
Contrary to the glamorous title, this period of history made oysters more accessible than ever to the masses. Production of oysters surged during the tail end of the 1800s, resulting in them becoming plentiful and cheap. They were sold on street corners in metropolitan cities like London and New York, serving as an inexpensive substitute for beef and even poultry.
Oysters became a far cry from food reserved only for the upper echelons of society. Due to this immense popularity, oysters were inevitably overharvested. By the 20th century, oyster farming and cultivation became the norm, and the mollusc was once again an expensive and sought-after dish.
There’s the W-curve we were talking about. Today, they remain a symbol of luxury to be enjoyed before a high-end meal, ideally with an olive brine-fi.