George Kailis’ seaside brasserie Gibney has thrown down the gauntlet as Perth’s most talked-about luxury dining experience. City fine-diner Wildflower is up for the challenge under new head chef Paul Wilson, who has unveiled his first menu celebrating Kambarang, the Noongar season of birth, flowers and colour. Bar & Bites recently ascended to culinary heaven at the State Buildings’ rooftop restaurant to sample the eight-course degustation bursting with flavour and showcasing Wilson’s technique and creativity.
The former Sydneysider has embraced local produce with several dishes showcasing the best of WA, from Koojan Downs beef tartare and crispy skinned Wagin duck to a Harvey orange meringue that revived my flagging palate. Seasonal asparagus was transformed into a panna cotta — an “asparacotta”, according to Wilson — served in a warm green broth that aroused the olfactory senses as much as the taste buds. The line-caught goldband snapper was a highlight.
The crispy-skinned fillet was garnished with clean, dried and fried fish scales seasoned in desert lime salt and dried nasturtium that gave the dish crunch and an assertive fishiness. The skin of the fish is also used in other recipes, according to Wilson, who is doing his darndest to minimise waste. Perfectly presented and salty Wagin duck, a signature at Wildflower, was served with the “forgotten carrot” — Wilson accidentally-on-purpose left it cooking too long, blackening one side.
The richest course.