Every day, more than 3000 tourists flock to the Ubud Monkey Forest. A 10ha sanctuary with three Hindu temples from the 14th century, it is home to more than 1200 long-tailed macaques, one of five monkey species found in Bali. Considered sacred animals and guardian spirits by the Balinese, monkeys symbolise harmony between humans and nature in the Balinese Hindu religion.
But with so many people and monkeys in one place, the Ubud Monkey Forest can feel more like an amusement park than a wildlife sanctuary. The “human-interaction overload” often results in aggressive behaviour among primates, most recently in June when Australian tourist Jami Groves reported being bitten and saddled with a $6000 bill for rabies shots. It was not a one-off incident.
Every year, reports of serious bites and scratches incurred at the Ubud Monkey Forest make headlines. There is, however, another monkey sanctuary in Bali that is larger, attracts far fewer visitors and offers a more intimate semi-wildlife experience. Set in the lush green lowlands of Abiansemal District, about 40 minutes drive from Ubud, the Sangeh Monkey Forest is home to an estimated 700 monkeys that spend their days scurrying around a 17th-century Hindu temple and scaling 300-year-old nutmeg trees.
The former royal garden for the Mengwi Kingdom, it draws a few hundred visitors a day, including Balinese couples who come here for pre-wedding photo shoots. Sangeh is kept clean, with visible bins, while attendants carry slingshots.