Scott Kenney and Meaghen Kenney, center, dine at Yolked Farm to Table Restaurant in Windham on the last day of October. The couple, who live in Gray, said they usually eat at the restaurant once a week. “We used to go to Portland a lot, but now we can come here and we have the same level of cooking as you can find in Portland,” Meaghen said.

Brianna Soukup/Staff Photographer “Alexa, how long does it take to drive to Windham from Portland?” I inquired before I grudgingly set out for a weeknight meal at Yolked Farm to Table. I don’t know what I was hoping to hear, but 31 minutes sounded about right. I must have been cranky that particular weeknight, not much in the mood to spend time in the car, and I was probably looking for an excuse to postpone.

But I picked up my dinner guest and stuck to the plan. By the end of the evening, I’d have my calendar open, penciling in the soonest available date for a return visit. Initially, what broke me out of my funk was our server.

“Hello. Bear with me, because this is actually my first day, and I don’t have all the stuff I’m supposed to say memorized,” he said nervously, just as we took our seats in a dining room paneled in rough wood from floor to the apex of the roof. “I’m just going to read you what I’ve got written down here.

” The Plaid Flannel cocktail. Brianna Soukup/Staff Photographer Disarmed, my guest and I leaned forward and assured him we were in no rush, especially since we had already ordered a refr.