KEEM Bay on Achill Island was named this year as one of the 100 best beaches in the world by Lonely Planet. The travel guide pays particular attention to the “vertiginous yet jaw-droppingly beautiful 4.9-mile (8km) drive from Keel village, at the distant western end of Co.

Mayo’s Achill Island. But to get the full impact of Achill, you have to leave the seaside behind and stray into the boggy uplands. Anywhere will do — there are no official pathways — but you'd work hard to get lost.

There are virtually no trees, and the snarling, gyrating Atlantic is nearly always in view. So as long as you remember which shoreline you've parked at, you won’t need SatNav or compass One particular route I recommend is just above Keem Strand to the north of the island. A half hour's fairly easy climb up the hill will reward you with magnificent views towards Croagh Patrick, the horizon dotted with the Sheefrey Hills and the Mweelrea Mountains.

In the middle distance lies Clare Island, Inishturk and Inishark. Your lungs might be wheezing like an old melodeon, but the spellbinding view will soon help you recover. Last time I was hereabouts the Atlantic-driven wind bent me double.

Possibly one of the windiest place I’ve ever been — and I’ve been round some windy corners, let it be said. It was so windy it looked as if the horizon might break loose from its moorings and flap away. But today it is was quiet as could be.

In fact, perfect conditions for heading towards the Megalithic.