For a long time, Saint John, N.B., seemed like a rough-and-tumble port city that just kept getting tougher.

But over the past decade, Canada’s oldest incorporated city has undergone a true renaissance, starting in the formerly neglected historic core, Uptown. First rebuilt by architects in the 19th century, after the devastating Great Fire of 1877, the district’s Greek revival, gothic and Italianate buildings have now been restored on the steep streets next to what was once one of the world’s busiest harbours. The more recent influx of people moving back to Uptown has also re-energized the area, allowing for the flourishing of restaurants and bars in a compact radius — the locals keeping the businesses humming through the tourist off-season.

And it’s not just Uptown. A high tide has swept across this city on the Bay of Fundy, and beyond, as I learned on a recent trip, which I spent exploring the food and drink scene, guided by advice from local friends. Here are five places to check out on your next visit.

Area 506 is a new retail/entertainment “village” built from repurposed shipping containers. Just down the hill from Uptown, in a tourist-friendly location on the busy harbour — right where cruise ships dock — roughly 60 repurposed shipping containers have created a whole new waterfront village, home to retail, food trucks and special events. Opened in 2022 and named after the city’s area code, it’s an excellent place to spend a sunny afternoon.

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