This story is part of the August 18 edition of Sunday Life. See all 15 stories . Each week, we quiz a prominent person about their style and the inspiration behind it.
Ahead, Designer Courtney Zheng. “I wear a lot of black and lean into a grungy aesthetic.” How would you describe your style? Androgynous and sleek.
I wear a lot of black and lean into a grungy aesthetic. What’s the oldest thing in your wardrobe? A crazy, Wild West-inspired leather coat with orange flames on it from the Acne Studios’ spring/summer ’22 collection. And the most recent addition? A Simone Rocha nylon bum bag with Harajuku-style bows.
This oversized “Elva” sweater from Courtney Zheng matches her personal style. What would you wear ..
. on a first date? On my first date with my boyfriend, I wore ivory-coloured, fitted, tailored trousers with a slinky silk halter-neck top and By Far strappy mules ..
. on a plane? Tracksuit pants with a souvenir sweatshirt I buy from the airport – a “New York” sweater from JFK, for example. I collect them, partially out of convenience, but it’s also comfort.
And because I’m usually travelling with two huge suitcases full of samples, I wear my heaviest leather coat and boots ...
on the red carpet? A slinky bias-cut gown, a tuxedo suit, or something structural and dramatic by Chinese couture designer Guo Pei who designed Rihanna’s yellow, feather-trimmed Met Gala gown. What’s your favourite fashion era? The most referenced in my designs is the ’90s. Some heroes of mine are Martin Margiela when he designed for Hermès and John Galliano for Christian Dior.
Who is your favourite designer? I’ve loved Rick Owens for as long as I can remember. Everything he does is daring, cool and sexy. I started saving up for his pieces when I was 14.
What’s your fragrance of choice? Serge Lutens “La Fille de Berlin”, a fresh rose scent. What are the three essential items in your wardrobe? Bottega Veneta cargo pants or Courtney Zheng “Fredric” jeans, baby tees and tanks, and oversized cashmere sweaters. Loading Any go-to jewellery? A jade bangle carved from the same piece of stone as my sister’s.
I love vintage jewellery such as Elsa Peretti’s more obscure pieces, outside what she did for Tiffany & Co. I also collect Paloma Picasso pieces and rings by Italian jeweller Pomellato. Can you remember a favourite outfit from when you were a child? My parents, who are denim manufacturers, dressed me in OshKosh overalls and Converse sneakers.
I had a bowl haircut until was 10. I hated it and wanted to look like a little doll, but now I think it’s cool. What was your first fashion moment? I made my first pair of jeans when I was 10.
My dad was making bleached denim flares with embroidered flowers on them for a big customer, like Jay Jays or General Pants. I was so obsessed with them I designed my own version and my dad actually made a batch for my sister and me to wear. Zheng collects rings by Italian jeweller Pomellato, as well as vintage pieces.
And your worst fashion mistake? Wearing jeggings. What’s on your wish list? A shearling Bottega Veneta coat and a vintage Cartier “Baignoire” bracelet watch. A girl can dream.
Is there a current trend you like? There are many Victorian references in my inspiration folders, such as the boned petticoats with exaggerated hip silhouettes that Simone Rocha did for Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture. I’d like to do something like that in leather. Is there anything you would never wear? I’m not a florals-and-ruffles kind of girl.
What shoes do you wear the most often? Acne lug-sole boots, Bottega rubber clogs and uggs. Who are your favourite fashion icons? I love old editorials and iconic campaigns featuring Amber Valletta. I’ve also always been obsessed with Abbey Lee Kershaw’s cool and quirky style.
What do you wear on a typical working day? I’m either in the factory in China or the Sydney warehouse and I’ll be wearing samples, like a blazer coat over activewear and Salomon sneakers. What’s your favourite off-duty, casual Sunday look? My washed out “Gunther” tracksuit pants with a super-fine merino skivvy and oversized cashmere jumper. courtneyzheng.
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